Uncovering natural cosmetics ingredients: novel approaches for the multifunctional grape biomolecules in skin care formulations

 Natural resources used as active ingredients in skincare formulations have been known and utilized for centuries. In recent years, we have observed a significant increase in interest in the composition of products intended for skin use, which is a decidedly favorable phenomenon. Formulas containing natural plant metabolites are characterized by the highest effectiveness, skin penetration capabilities, and safety of use. The advancement of science allows for a deeper understanding of skincare involving natural plant extracts. Primarily, the use of modern analytical tools and metabolomics enables the selection of the most effective ingredients tailored to specific skin needs.

Grapes, due to their remarkable richness in active ingredients that have multifaceted rejuvenating effects on the skin, constitute a very interesting subject for research on specialized active ingredients in cosmetics.

The research project focuses on the activity and metabolomic screening of grape varieties grown in Poland, particularly the fungus-resistant grape varieties, which are characterized by the presence of specific phytoalexins, ensuring their high resistance to challenging environmental conditions and protection against diseases. The research material was obtained through cell cultivation in vitro conditions, which constitutes a good alternative to conventional cultivation. Independence from weather conditions and the necessity to use pesticides for protection against pathogens have allowed for obtaining extracts with a stable composition and provided the opportunity to compare metabolic profiles for individual grapevine species.

The objective of the research is the polyphenol profiling of the extracts, the evaluation of their multidirected biological activity and the indication of the crucial metabolites which determine their cosmetic potential. UPLC-DAD-MS/MS-based metabolomics tools were applied to identify the optimal medium composition and the grape varietes with the most beneficial metabotypes for the application in skin care products. The crucial step of the research covered the development of novel cosmetic bigel formulation containing the selected grape extracts as well as the evaluation of its physicochemical properties and quality.

Speaker

Dr Magdalena Malinowska

LE STUDIUM Research Fellow / ARD CVL Cosmetosciences Programme

FROM: Cracow University of Technology - PL
IN RESIDENCE AT: Biomolecule and Plant Biotechnology (BBV), University of Tours - FR